This is the second generation GMT-Master. Still with the acrylic crystal, but already with the crown guards. After having owned the watch for a few weeks, I tried to write down my initial impressions and feelings on this GMT-Master and Rolex in general. Here they are:
A few months ago I became
the owner of a vintage Rolex GMT-Master. I wanted one for my collection because
of the 24hr hand combined with the 24hr bezel, and the Pan Am history of this
watch. There is probably not a single brand that is so recognised all around the
world, and not one that generates so many emotions, both positive and negative
as Rolex does. I've tried to take an objective view of my GMT-Master and Rolex
in general and here are my thoughts.
Looks.
Is this a good looking watch?
I find this question difficult to answer. The GMT, just like the Submariner has
become a design icon. It's difficult to judge it objectively, but I'll give it a
try.
The dial is great. The black dial with round hour markers, bars at 6 and 9, and
the triangle at 12 is near impossible to improve in my opinion. The Rolex crown
symbol is not only very recognisable; it's simple, small and good looking.
However, there is way too much print on the dial. I hate it when you need four
lines of text to prove that it's a good watch. The date is a mixed blessing.
It's very easy to read which is good. The magnifier on the other hand is pretty
ugly, and you need to have the watch close to the perfect angle to be able to
read anything at all.
The hands are excellent. Good length, easy to distinguish and pretty. I have
some doubts on the red colour for the 24hr hand, but apart from that it's
perfect. You'll never mistake it for the 12hr hand, and it reaches the outer
limits of the dial, clearly indicating the time on the 24hr bezel.
Speaking of the bezel, again it's very difficult to decide if it's good looking.
I very much like the large print, the even hour Arabic’s with the dots in
between, the triangle at 24, and the day/night colour coding. But the colours of
the bezel are strange when you think of it. Red representing day, and blue
representing night. The only reason I can think of is that it makes it possible
to use the same colour print for the hours, and still have sufficient contrast
with both the day and night colour. To be honest, I don't think that objectively
you can say that the colours are a good choice. Then again, the red/blue bezel
is the most recognisable element of the watch, and maybe for that reason I have
to admit that I love it.
The case on first glance is nothing special. However the size and form are
exactly right. The diameter is large enough to provide sufficient space for a
clear dial and bezel, but it still fits an average size wrist nicely. I hope
they never give in to the big size craze, and make it bigger then it needs to
be. It sits pretty flat on the wrist which I think is good.
The relatively small crown fits nicely in between the guards. Since you never
need to wind it, and rarely need to adjust time, the screw-down small crown is
fine. Probably better then a big crown that may irritate the wrist.
All in all, the design has many great elements, most of all the dial, and some
flaws. Those flaws do give it character though, and like all things that have
been with us for ever, we tend to grow toward loving them. At least I do.
Functionality.
This watch was designed for a reason. When Pan Am got their 707's, their crews
had to experience big changes in Local Time often and nearly instantly. For that
reason Pan Am asked Rolex to design a watch that would make life easier by
indicating different time zones, and was easy to adjust to a new time zone.
Does it do those things? Well yes, but not like you might hope it would.
Rolex chose to add a second hour hand that goes around once every 24 hours. That
hand indicates the same time as the 12hr hand. The only way you can set a
different time zone is by turning the bezel to the correct position. This in
itself is easy. However, what times do you set? Like most people, I leave the
12hr (and hence the 24hr hand) at my home time. When travelling I turn the bezel
to the local time. That means you have the read the local time on the bezel
using the 24hr hand. That's not very intuitive. I guess the true purist would
leave the main time at GMT, meaning you always have to read local time on the
24hr bezel, even when at home. That's even less intuitive. Also the date always
indicates home date (or GMT if you set that), while what you really want is the
local date. Personally I have one other problem with it. I'm the type of person
that always "plays" with buttons, levers and every thing that moves in
general, and invariably after some time my bezel is off. Not because it turns
too easily, but because I did it myself without thinking about it.
To be fair, this watch was designed a long time ago, and it does offer a fairly
usable two time zone function which was uncommon during that time. At least I
don't know of any watches from that period that were any better in this regard.
Quality.
Now here is where the Rolex shines. This watch is functional. It's well build,
and when I compare it to my other watches from that period I have to say that
it's easily the best. Omega comes close, but not quit there; others my
Breitlings included are clearly less. Differences may be smaller nowadays, but
in the 50's/60's Rolexes must have been in a class of their own.
The bezel is proof. Mine is perfectly smooth, with just the right amount of
friction that is completely constant all the way around both left and right. Not
the tiniest bit of play. Perfect.
The date change is exactly at midnight with a nice reassuring click.
I picked mine up from the watchmaker almost two weeks ago now. During this
period I've worn it not more then maybe 6 hours a day on average, and never
wound it. It's still running. Not only that, I didn't reset the time once, and
it's still within a minute or so, meaning it's within 5 sec a day or less.
This watch simply feels good, and gives the impression that it will stand
another 40 years of service without missing a beat. It probably will.
Emotion.
This is probably the hardest part. I have a clear love/hate relationship with
this brand.
Why? To be honest (I hope nobody takes insult here!) because of the other people
that tend to buy them. It's the choice of people that have little or no
affection for watches, but still for whatever reason want to spend a lot of
money on it. I've never liked Rolexes, probably for that reason. And to be fair,
although this is my most recognisable watch, I hardly ever get a compliment.
"is it real?" is what I usually here. I then tell them it is, and
explain the history of this particular model, and why it fits so nicely in my
collection. And in doing so, I know I'm proud to be wearing it. I guess my
increased knowledge of watches in general has raised my regard for Rolex,
particularly what they achieved in the past. And although I like my watch to
start a discussion, I don't really care if people approve of my choices.
Wearing the GMT-Master makes me feel good. It's a watch that doesn't need to
prove anything to anyone. It's in a class of its own. Not necessarily better in
all regards, but certainly in most. I can not help but love the package as a
whole.
I have respect for Rolex as a company, and the fact that they completely ignore
fashion. That's a wise choice if you ask me. I certainly don't like everything
they made, but the GMT-Master is one of their great models, and I love mine.
Ron
